We enjoyed the canal, but it was nice to get out to the sea again. Well, when we say sea, it was more like a loch, as you are surrounded on all sides by land. The Swedish archipelago is the largest in the world, between the Finish and Swedish Archipelagos there are in the region of 50 thousand islands. It is hard to nail down an exact figure due to the other interesting fact that the land mass is rising here at nearly a centimetre a year. There are new islands every year and over a thousand hectares of new land. So, a port built 50 years ago is now half a meter shallower which is a lot in the shipping industry. Much of the sea here is 20 meters deep so in 2000 year you may be able to walk across from Sweden to Finland (may need the odd bridge).
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We enjoyed the canal, but it was nice to get out to the sea again. Well, when we say sea, it was more like a loch, as you are surrounded on all sides by land. The Swedish archipelago is the largest in the world, between the Finish and Swedish Archipelagos there are in the region of 50 thousand islands. It is hard to nail down an exact figure due to the other interesting fact that the land mass is rising here at nearly a centimetre a year. There are new islands every year and over a thousand hectares of new land. So, a port built 50 years ago is now half a meter shallower which is a lot in the shipping industry. Much of the sea here is 20 meters deep so in 2000 year you may be able to walk across from Sweden to Finland (may need the odd bridge).
Anyway rather than prattle on about it, here are some pictures….
Exiting the Canal
As you can see, if rocks and trees are your thing then you will love it here.There is a narrow channel on the way out with a castle on one side (have to say if I was picking a spot for a castle this would be on the list)and a ferry port on the other. Clearly with islands come ferries (normally at speed and demanding right of way)A fine example of Swedish madness. Drive a expensive fragile lump of plastic at the rocks then tie up to them hoping that the anchor out the back holds. To be fair all of the Swedes we have spoken to agree it is mad (but still love doing it, quoting, “It is the Swedish way!”)More Swedish parking
Arkosund
This was a beautiful little marina just north of where we exited the Canal. We arrived early as we had been warned that the Swedes try and be at their destination by about 2p.m. in the peak season to ensure they get a spot.
View of the marinaThis is one of the SAR boats (equivalent of the RNLI). Had a good chat with them. The main issues they have here are, a) pulling Swedes off rocks when the wind changes (he agreed it is a crazy way to park a boat), b) putting out fires on islands in the summer, c) boats icing in the winter, eg the pilot boats after 2 hours can become top heavy in a rough sea. The sea here has so little salt that it can easily freeze on the deck causing the boat to capsize and d) not being able to see the ice flows until you hit them (they have a hovercraft to help)Jenny blanket makingSomeone did not get the memo about only immaculate houses being on show. This one has clearly sunk at one end . If this was brick it would have probably just fallen down.
We stayed an extra day and went Kayaking. Jenny got to be a back seat driver…From the scale of the map they provided they clearly did not expect to see us back within a month or so!Bin day, archipelago style. we saw lots of these, but alas never saw the scaffy wagon/barge/boatWe are now totally familiar with this scene, but this was our first encounter with all of these little summer houses ( some not so little) with their own little marina.the mandated selfie (come on, paddle faster)more houses with little marinas ( I want one )And another ( with some wild life)Think they are Crested Grebe
Ringso
Next Stop – Ringso. A beautiful bay within an islandThat’s us with the anchor sail (stops her swinging around as she is prone to do)
We took a picnic and went for a walk. Most of the islands have several BBQ sites like this dotted around them (and note, not an old can of Tennents to be seen. Scotland, you have a way to go!)They put toilets on many of the islands (they are just toilets with a big hole underneath into a storage bin which they then come round and empty – for those interested it holds 500 litres of…..). I have to say this one was immaculate.Some interesting flowers found on the way, any ideas what they are?Nice spot at the southern end of the islandDaisies – I love daisies (Jen)A really nice spot for lunch.Andy proving what a perfect lunch spot it was.Before lunch, it was a perfect spot for some yoga, Andy’s staff pose is coming along well.I can still scratch the middle of my own back…….but am struggling with unsupported head stands, I usually use poles to stop my hyper mobile shoulders from collapsing but I forgot to bring them with me on the boat……better keep practicing.The colours in the water were very vivid. loved the patterns of the ripples over the rocks.Getting busier by the time we got back from our exploration.Another stunning sunset.When at anchor you should show a light at the top of the mast…….if you’re posh, you do this!When I went to pull up the steps the next morning, we had started our own shrimp farm.Fresh bread, milk, smoked fish, strawberries, ice creams etc, delivered to your boat
Fifang
More Swedish parking…..note Feath, sensibly anchored well away from anything that can cause her harm.If we owned a boat as pretty as this one, it would never get anywhere near a rock!The whole island was covered in a network of paths, this bit was quite boggy so we turned roundMy favourite walks usually take in some mixed woodland like this, just perfect.Not sure these will ever run again!There were loads of really old, interesting dead trees, the textures and colours were fascinating Andy was very taken by the vividness of the lichenNot to scale!!!!!!I loved the way this tree had it’s hands upYou can even see it’s smiling face, or, at least, I can see a face in there! Yup, think it will take my weight……How hard can it be?Almost there……Look, no hands…..Right, done that….(elapsed time….0.02 seconds!)Spotted a little grass snake swimming with a fish in it’s mouthWe watched while it dislocated it’s jaw to swallow the fish, quite an impressive sight.Then we saved a Unicorn from drowning. Being Scottish, we have a duty of care to all Unicorns, they being Scotland’s national animal, so we couldn’t leave it to drown.Andy performed CPR and the unicorn is looking healthy enough to try and return it to it’s owner.Stock take…… I found 4 cans of beans I didn’t know we had!We decide at this point that the rock was full and no one else would try and tie up to it…As you can see, we were very wrong!
Nynashamn
Next stop was a marina, washing to do, food to buy…. we didn’t get any photos of the marina but will be returning on the way back down the coast. A really safe marina with lots of facilities and super helpful staff who sorted us out with a day ticket for a trip into Stockholm on the train. The public transport system here works….. one ticket covers trains, buses, ferries and trams and they are timetabled to arrive and depart in sync with each other, the buses and trains even leave from central transport hubs, yet again, Scotland, you have a lot to learn!
Stockholm from the water. Again lots of copper roofs.I have a new chart for the boat , may be a bit old.This is the Vasa museum. I suggest you spend 5 mins on google as it is a fascinating story. This ship is 98% original having been underwater for 300 yearsVery tall ( by order of the king). Unfortunately not that stable ( like very unstable- so floated for less than 20 mins)We spent a couple of hours here but could easily spend twice thatAs we had to go off and make some essential purchases. Traveling by bus was fun with this lot.Think this was some form of school , but a very impressive building.Very cosmopolitan cityView from the water taxiI was warned not to try and enter Stockholm by sea on a Saturday morning. I now know why as we must have passed 50 boats in a matter of minutes, all heading out to seaFair Ground in the centre of the city (not for me thanks!)A giraffe crane for Hilary
Rano
Yet another beautiful anchorage on another beautiful island.Jenny spotted some evidence of large rodents. The mice here are big!Clear evidence of Bill the Beaver hard at work.Love the way they work round the treesJenny was impressed with the size of the teeth marks.All of this hunting for Swedish Beaver is hot and thirsty workWe found some ant hills. This one was clearly a punk ( over a meter high)Icelandic sheepI did my bit for the nature hunt and spotted this elk. Managed to sneak up without disturbing it.Time to deploy the essential purchases….……to continue the beaver hunt. YOu can see the felled trees and a path into the water just in front of the kayakWe found the lodge across the bay from the felled trees but no sign of the beavers (it may be that they were trapped and removed as they can change the ecology of an area and the whole island is carefully managed to support the existing wildlife)
Karlsunds
It was very wet in Karlsunds but we met another British flagged boat from the Isle of Man so we got chatting……… well, drinking with the Horst and his son Stefan who are very interesting German Manxmen. Horst’s life story would make an excellent, if somewhat racy film if his stories are anything to go by. If you are reading this, thanks for all your help and suggestion of anchorages and places to visit.
There was a lot of flies……Told you it was raining!
Stockholm
We have seen loads of sea eagles but still haven’t managed to get a decent photo!Stockholm suburbs.You build your house wherever there is space and, if that’s at the top of a cliff, you just build ladders to get to your boat which has to be lifted out of the water on hydraulic rams to stop it being smashed off the rocks.See what I mean?Some parts of the route we chose are very narrow, you really wouldn’t want to meet all those wee boats we saw leaving Stockholm in this passage.The other house that didn’t get the memo!The Nordic Museum, didn’t have time to go and look around but it’s quite another spectacular building.Looking one way from the bridge you are in the city…..…..and looking the other way, you are in the country.Liverpool Football and Red Socks fans, this is what your ticket money has bought. $2 billion dollars!The riverside.The crew were polishing the decks all day. notice the red ensign, she is registered in the tax haven of the Cayman Islands.Ferries lined up in front of the Royal Palace.Heading into the old town.Tour buses lined up in front of the Royal Palace.Can you guess what this shop sells?In the old town.Some bits were very busy…..…..and some bits were not.
Every city has a Dragon Slayer….….and a man on a horse but this one seems to have lost his road cone!Front view of the palace.Andy’s next car.He can’t resist and old tram but we still haven’t managed a ride on one of them.Mama bear playing with her cub at the entrance to a public park.When they finished the decks, they started on the windows….
We waited in Stockholm to pick up the new crew. Watch out for the next post written by our guest bloggers.
Another fantastic instalment of your adventures! And of course, your photos are fab as always! Enjoy. Take care. Look forward to seeing and reading your next chapter of fun. Iluska x
Feath 
Another fantastic instalment of your adventures! And of course, your photos are fab as always! Enjoy. Take care. Look forward to seeing and reading your next chapter of fun. Iluska x
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