Well, this is the last blog of the year. Feath is stripped down ready for her winter on the cradle at Portavadie. Despite the high winds it has been excellent this year. Below is a summary of the last 2 weeks, Starting with a trip through the Crinnan Canal, then a few days on the Clyde

“The canal, which opened in 1801, takes its name from the village of Crinan at its western end. Approximately nine miles (14 km) long, the canal connects the village of Ardrishaig on Loch Gilp with the Sound of Jura, providing a navigable route between the Clyde and the Inner Hebrides, without the need for a long diversion around the Kintyre peninsula, and in particular the exposed Mull of Kintyre. The canal was built to provide a short cut for commercial sailing and fishing vessels and later Clyde puffers to travel between the industrialised region around Glasgow to the West Highland villages and islands. It was designed by civil engineer John Rennie and work started in 1794, but was not completed until 1801, two years later than planned. The canal’s construction was beset with problems including finance and poor weather.” Wikipedia

We contacted Jo and Pete (friends from Dunblane) to see if they wanted to join us for the trip. My brother and his family also came up for the day to help, so we had plenty of crew

We were joined in the first lock by a beautiful Motor boat from 1935 called Kingfisher. We never actually took a picture of us in the lock with her (probably as I was terrified I would scrape her). So here is a picture off the internet. Owners were very nice – turned out their other boat was a Fife over 100 years old called Mikado (very special).

After Pete and Jo left we had an excellent sail from Ardrishaig to Tarbert, where we stayed for a couple of days

We went for a cycle the next day down west Loch Tarbert. Princess Anne was due to visit to look at the marina facilities. I believe she opened them a few years ago.

Round to Largs to collect our own VIP

We then headed round to Largs as we had arranged to take my college friends Antony and Susan out for a sail along with his mother (Jacobine) and sister (Helena). Jacobine has been a long time supporter of ours and has followed our adventures from the start, she even face timed us as we crossed the North Sea to check we were ok, so it was the least we could do.

Portavadie to collect our last guests of the year

Geoff and Moira Join us for a few days

So that is it for this year. Boat is away and will be lifted out this week. We aim to resume at the end of April next year.

Hope you have enjoyed the pics

Andy and Jenny

I will start by making an apology (I know they say you should never do that). This is going to be a long blog as we managed to fit a lot in in the last 5 weeks of the season.

The short version for those in a hurry is, we sailed down from Oban, stopping off at places along the way to Northern Ireland. We then sailed back up to Crinnan and through into the Clyde. Finally, 10 days around the Clyde then put the boat to bed. There, that is the summary.

For those who want the full technicolour version, read on…. (it’s mainly pictures :)). I will cover the Cannal and the Clyde in the next and last blog of the year. Finally, no effects or filters were used in the sunset shots. They really were that good!!!!

We left Oban early the next day as we had to get the Tide to get through to Kilmelford. Last time we did it we made it with about 3 mins to spare before the tidal gate closed so this time we left early.

We then set off for Jura

We decided to do a wee walk to Kilearnadal Burial ground. This is the old burial ground on Jura and was named after St Columba’s uncle, St Earnan. Some old graves date from before the 1500s. The Scottish islands are dotted with similar sights.

Onward to Islay

Ballycastle and a visit to our friends David and Hillary

We set off to Ireland and had a very smooth crossing. When we arrived in Ballycastle we discovered that we had arrived in the middle of the Horse fair (one of the oldest in Northern Ireland). It runs over 4 days and we arrived on Day 2. Missed the horse racing on the beach, but in time for the firework display, which was set off from the marina, and the fair itself.

Off to the tropical Paradise of Gigha

Once we had said our farewells to David and to Northern Ireland, we started making our way north again to travel through the Crinnan Canal. We had a few days of fine weather still on the forecast so we took our time and stopped off in Gigha so Jenny could have her long-promised meal at the Boat House. In our view one of the nicest places to eat on Scotland.

The last day on the west coast

We got up early the next morning and headed to the Crinnan canal for the final two weeks of the trip. As if to say goodbye, the sunrise was almost as spectacular as the sunset

After a couple of weeks away from the boat, and Jenny learning to drive a tractor (another story), we came back to Harris with some additional crew. My elder brother and 2 of his three kids (Madeline and Cameron). As we found out on our return, the weather had been truly horrible, so we had made a wise choice.

The first stop was 30 miles south of Harris – Loch Maddy. We had been warned that the pier was under refurbishment, and it would be noisy. They were not joking. The noise was horrendous. Luckily come 7.00pm the work came to a stop. We went to the hotel for a pint and some quiet and I did try and persuade my newly 19 year old nephew to get the beer’s in – but he had forgotten his money and his ID (a bit of a recurring theme! He will go far!)

On to Canna

We decided that the younger members of the crew may enjoy getting the Kayak out so we headed for Canna as it offers a large sheltered bay to play in the water. We also did the customary trip to see the puffins. To avoid boring everyone, I have skipped yet more photographs of Canna and the Puffins.

A Change of Crew

We now had to collect the next set of guests from Oban. Robin (my younger brother), Kenny (who came out with us earlier in the year) and Danny (last on the boat in 2019 when he helped us sail to the Baltic). As is the story of the year, the first 2 days of the trip were to be very poor so we decided to do a walk round Kerrera (you may remember we did one last year in the pouring rain – well guess what it was pouring again this year!) on the first wet day and spend a day in Oban on the another (ok, so we may have visited a coupler of whisky shops…..).

And we are off

Islay

First stop was Islay. Guess what? They have a few distilleries on Islay – who knew!! , Well ok, we did. Danny had purchased some bottles from Bunnahabhain a year earlier, so we thought we had better collect them. It would be silly to go all that way and not stop at another one on the way, so we also stopped at Ardnahoe (a new distillery opened by a bottling company in Glasgow, who have decided to get into making the contents). We had originally planned on hiring a car (Jenny had volunteered to drive a bunch of reprobates around). But after establishing that they wanted the first-born child from each of us and all our worldly possessions in payment, we went for the bus out and Taxi back option. I should say at this point that Danny is a bit of a collector of whisky and has been known to purchase one or 2 fine bottles in his time.

At this point I need to say that this was one of the best tasting sessions I have ever been to (and I have done the odd one or three). Not just because the drams were 3 times the size of any others I have had, not because of our host admitted that the scar on his head was due to an encounter with the kitchen floor after a rather intense tasting session but because he said that as most of the whisky is stored in central Scotland you can ignore all the crap about how the salt air enters the barrels. What you need to know is the barrels make the whisky. He then went on to spend 30 mins talking about sherry and how it is made and the Solero system that is used to blend it. This is what makes the sherry casks and hence the flavour of the whisky if stored in sherry casks. Most whisky starts in American bourbon casks but it is often finished in other casks which changes the taste of the whisky.

Needless to say we made it back to the boat in one piece (along with a few bottles of whisky)

The Sound of Jura and east Loch Tarbert on Jura

The next day we decided to head for the west side of Jura (through the sound we had walked alongside the day before. But clearly, we were concerned that we may have insufficient supplies for such a trip, so Danny and Kenny set off round three distilleries on the trusty Bromptons while we headed up the coast to “catch ” them at the far end.

North past Iona and Fingles Cave to Tobermory

We stopped at Tobermory for the night and went out for dinner. Again, you have all seen many pictures of Tobemory so have not added any here. Needless to say we also visited the distillery and purchases were made.

We then sailed up Loch Sunart to a small marina at Salin. Run by a really nice couple who moved up from England in about 2009. There is a very picturesque walk above the bay

Then back to Oban

We had to leave Feath in Kerrara (Just opposite Oban) for 3 weeks as we had a couple of weddings to attend. If the weather in the west had been good we would have come back between the wedding , but, as it turned out, it was nothing special. By the time we returned in mid/late August the weather had at last improved.

After being in Stornaway we decided that this was as far North as we were going this year . Loads of other boats had made the same decision. We decided to head south in the hope of avoiding the strong winds. As if to make the point, the day we set off the weather cleared so we decided to visit the Shiant Islands ( small group of islands just off Harris) The islands are alive with birds. When you sail in , it is like being in a swarm. They are everywhere. Afraid you don’t get a feeling of just how alive it was from the pictures. We went out in the dingy and drifted along the shore. The bird were totally un-phased by us and if anything, followed us along the shore. They started diving under the dingy ( I am sure that this was just out of curiosity as with that number of birds there could not have been any fish ). This is where I discovered that my waterproof Iphone is not! . But I did get some good video before it went pop. Below are some of the stills I took from the video.

The Shiants

We spent a good 20 mins just watching them swim under the dingy

Harris

We headed into Tarbert on Harris. Cracking wee Marina, run by Carolanne and Fred. Brilliant people who could not be more helpful. The Marina is just in front of the Harris Gin distillery.

So the first trip out was to cycle over to Luskentyre. Bit of a hill, but well worth the trip.

A Trip to South Harris and Rodel Church

We took a trip to the south of Harris with our friends, Debbie and Gary . You can take the bus down one side ( The Gold Road – so called because of the amount of money it cost ) , and back up the other. I dont know why people go to Alton Towers – just get in behind a Harris bus driver !

A Blast from the Past

While in the marina we met a couple of chaps who had sailed in on a Wayfarer. They had come across from Uig on Sky in some fairly strong winds . Turns out they were from Thornbury Sailing club where I used to sail when we lived in Bristol. They take this wee boat all over the place. They sleep and cook in it. Makes me realise what a wimps we are.

Trip to Scalpay

There is a small island called Scalpay with a lighthouse on it, connected to Harris by a bridge. We decided it was worth a trip. Unleash the Bromptons…

Time to head home for a couple of weeks

We had looked at the forecast and decided that with 2 weeks of wind and rain on the way we would head home for a couple of weeks

As I mentioned at the end of the last blog we needed to go home for 10 days (trips to dentist etc). At the end of the 10 days we decided to extend as the forecast in the North West was for yet more storms so we took a trip down south in the car for a few days before returning and heading North on Feath. The weather this year is fairly poor, mainly from a wind perspective. In general we tend not to head out into wind when it is blowing much above 25-30 Knots . Fine if you are out in it, but leaving a safe haven to head out into it never seams to be that sensible to me, especially if you don’t need to. To get round the top of Scotland we were looking for 2-3 days where the wind would be below 20 Knots, but every second day at the moment has wind gusting Force 6 to 7 with a wave hight of 3-4 Meters. The long range forecast is not predicting a change so, even if we get to Orkney, the current forecast suggests we would be limited in what we can do. So rather than spend days holed up in the north west of Scotland waiting for that weather window our current plan is to spend some time exploring the outer Hebrides and see what develops. We can do 5-6 hour sails down the coast each time the weather is in our favour . All a bit of a first world problem really!

A Trip South

We decided to head down to Malvern to see our friends Antony and Sue for a few days . Make a trip of it and stay in the Lakes on the way down and on the way back.

We stayed in a smashing pub on the way down ( The Punch Bowl ) superb ! The next day was a tad warm (27 deg in shade), but roof has to stay down – its the rules. We’d already had to stop to buy sunglasses as Andy had left his at home and we stopped again to buy hats to keep the sun off our heads! Needless to say we were thirsty when we arrived.

It would be fair to say that Antony is a bit of a collector of projects . Normally, but not always, with wheels attached.

We also managed to fit in a trip to the 3 Counties Show ( one of the biggest agricultural shows in the UK )

We headed back to Dunblane, but before heading back to the boat we also managed to squeeze in a trip to the Red Kite Centre, where Jenny tried out her new camera lens. They were re introduced a few years back near Dunblane and have done very well .

Back on the Boat

We got back to the boat in Mallaig to find the boat all fine ( other than a small puncture to the dingy on the jetty, which has since been fixed. Bit of an interesting row out). We decided to make the most of the good 2 days and head North . First to the Island of Rona off Skye (fantastic anchorage) then on the Stornoway

Stornoway

We decided to stay in Stornoway for a few days as we had not been here before. Also wanted to see if the weather showed any signs of settling (the answer was no!). We were amazed by the number of foreign boats in. Scots and Brits were in the minority. German, French, Dutch, Norwegian, Irish, Swedish. Even a boat from the Faroe islands next to us. 3 blokes had sailed directly to Stornoway (220 miles against the wind) for 3 days of drinking then sail back again. That is dedication. Not sure if it was intentional but the marina guys parked the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust’s boat, (Silurian) next to the boat from the Faroes!

The Standing Stones

The Standing Stones at Callanish ( 4000 to 2600 BC) are quite something. The thing is , no one really knows what purpose they served. It is believed that they demonstrate that, with the advent of farming, people had time to build such things ( a bit like Netflix of the day !) At one point a small burial mound was added to the centre of the circle, but has since been removed.

Beaches (They do good beaches around here)

A cycle to Port of Ness

We decided to cycle up to the Port of Ness which is right in the north of the island. It was a 27 Mile cycle out and then we planned on getting the bus back. We normally take the bus out and cycle back as that way we know we can get the folded bikes on the bus before we commit – but as the wind was from the south we figured, what the hell? ( although neither of us fancied a round trip of over 50 miles). As it turned out, it all worked fine. It was a cracking cycle up, and even better we found a fantastic cafe in the Port of Ness called The Breakwater, which could do anything on the menu gluten free including pizza and battered fish, can’t recommend them highly enough.

And the good news is we got on the bus!

A Cholesterol Feast from local produce

For the last night we pigged out on the finest local produce we could find.

I am sure my heart slowed by a few BPM after that.

Leaving Stornoway

As the weather was good when we left to head south to Tarbert in Harris we decided to stop at the Shiant Islands on the way. It is a haven for bird life with more seabirds in a small space than I have ever seen , and no fear of people. More in next Blog…..

But, before we go, we had a visitor come to see us on the way out of Stornoway, we’ve coined a new phrase this trip, ‘Scotland, where you need a wide angled lens to photograph the wildlife’

Ok so we went to Canna quite a lot over the last week in May and first week in June. 2 reasons- a) we really like it. It is another of these thin places, yet has more colour than Iona. b) it is half way between the mainland and the Outer Hebrides with good moorings.

As per usual, the wind blew and we had some storms the first week so we stayed put in Mallaig. Great marina and facilities (with a brilliant bakery ). When you look up the guide of what to do in Mallaig, everything starts with ” first leave Mallaig !”

You have fair warning, this is a long blog. At the end of the day , this is our ” ships log ” so we can look back on it and remember what we did rather than just look at a jumble of pictures. So feel free to just skim through some pictures, I will not be asking questions when we next meet up!

As per usual we never got bored. Bellow is a quick summary

Visit to Distillery in Fortwilliam

We decided to go to Fortwilliam for the day as the train journey between Mallaig and Fortwilliam is counted by many, including CNN as one of the top 10 rail journeys in the world. There is also a distillery in Fortwilliam that we had never visited (yes there are still some).

The JK Rowling express runs from Fort William to Mallaig and was rammed. Having travelled on a steam train before and been very disappointed we did not go for this option. The only ways to enjoy a steam train in my view is a) drive it ( and for some reason you don’t often get asked to) or b)watch it from the side of the track. Sitting behind it, you just don’t get to see the interesting bit.

Day Trip to Eigg

Again, one of these places we sailed past a lot , but no safe anchorage. So we let Calmac take the strain and went out for a few hours . It is an interesting place as it is community owned and is now self sufficient in green energy . Each house is allocated 5KW a day and if you have a business you get 10KW. It was the first community in the world to have 24 hour renewable energy with a combination of hydro, wind and solar, and is now a model that is being used all over the world in similar communities. They are doing a lot on the island in terms of a new shop and Cafe along with putting in some new visitors moorings .

Cycle and a Swim

Despite the wind , the weather was not that bad , so we got the Bromptons out and Cycled down to Arisaig and back. Beautiful Cycle

The Chief Engineer Arrives

Another reason for hanging around Mallaig, was we had some guests coming to sail with us. This firs was Kenny, who is also Feath’s Chief Engineer . It was noted that he did not turn up in his white overalls. We had a 4 day weather window to get some sailing in before the next strong winds came in so we decided to head North to Plockton. The land of Hamish Macbeth. A bit of a gusty and wet day. Timing is key as the tide can run at 8 Knots through Kyle Rhea. No one wants to be the idiot trying to go the wrong way.

We then headed North again to Shieldaig in Loch Torridon. Again another poor day. But even in the rain it is a dramatic spot.

The weather improved so we sailed back down to Oronsay. I small inlet on the south east of Skye.

Then it was back to spend a couple of days in Mallaig awaiting others to join us while the next storm came through.

Kenny and I also took a bike ride down to the Arisaig cake shop

Crew change over and a quick trip to Canna

My Brother and his partner Sue turned up and shortly after we had 2 friends (Jim and Jenni) from Australia arrive (been a long term plan to take them sailing for a couple of days ). As the weather looked good we thought we would take them to see the Puffins on Canna

Alas, Jenni and Jim only had a couple of days in the schedule for sailing so we had to get them back to Mallaig – and pick up out next crew.

A trip to the Outer Hebrides

We had a good spell of settled weather over the next few days when we picked up Jo and Pete (friends from Dunblane ). It just so happens they love Canna and had stayed many times. They had not been back for 20 years so that was our first stop. We also took Jo round to see the Puffins from the water .

The following day it was a 5 am start to get to Mingulay (our favourite island in the outer Hebs)

The following day we sailed up the east coast to Lochboisdale

We then headed back to Mallaig via Canna

As I write this, we are at home in Dunblane . Have left the boat in Mallaig on a mooring. We had intending being back for 10 days ( Dentist and other appointments we had made before we left) but we are staying home for another week while another big front comes through. A fairly lengthy blog , as despite the weather we actually did a lot ( and actually other than the wind , we had a fair amount of sun)

One of the problems with Sailing is you are dependent on the weather. In general we tend to avoid going out in anything over 28Knots of wind unless we have to. When it is just 2 of you and you are battering into 30mph of wind for 8 hours it is fairly exhausting and becomes more of a chore. Over the last 2 weeks we have had low after low hitting the west coast bringing high winds, so we have been doing a bit of weather dodging . Its often not a bad thing as you spend more time exploring where you are rather than constantly moving on.

Mull for a Few Days

So with some strong winds forecast we set about exploring Mull. First the mandated walk to the lighthouse , we have done this before, but not at this time of year. The plant life is beautiful with all the bluebells and wild garlic

A walk in the Park

There is a country park just outside Tobermory called Aros Park, which in all the times we have been there, we have never walked around. So we spent a wet morning having a look – it is in the grounds of an old house which was demolished by the British Army for being unsafe (the stone was used to make the car park). It is a nice walk if you are ever in the area.

In the afternoon we did some essential maintenance, replacing the remote control for the anchor

A trip to Iona

Again, another place we have sailed past on many occasions is Iona. There is no real safe anchorage there as there is a very strong tide running through the Sound . So we decided to hire a car ( yes you can in Tobermory, and we are talking one with an MOT and everything for under £60, unlike other remote places I have hired cars in Scotland) and go visit. I am sure most of you know the history of Iona . If not, the abbreviated summery is …. St Columbus moved in, lots of Viking raids, always been a place of pilgrimage, built large church , church ruined, bloke from Glasgow pitches up and rebuilds church, we pitch up for day trip.

Overall the Island is well worth a visit – a few nice craft shops and eating places . Definitely one of the thin places on this earth so you can understand how it has become a centre for pilgrimage.

A Bit of a Bike Ride to Calgary Bay

Another place on the list for a visit. Again not a fantastic anchorage so never been in . According to the signs we figured it was about 12.5 miles on the bikes ( the signs have different mileages so we took the average )

It was a fair old trek into the wind. Glad I had converted the Bromptons to a bit of electric support for the hills!

A trip to Ardnamurchan

Again , somewhere we sailed round numerous times , but never visited (a good thing – that is why they put a lighthouse on it, definitely not a ” come in and have yer tea” light, more a “come in and I will bash you to death on these rocks” kind of light ). So for our last excursion we hopped on a ferry and then did a short (6 mile) ride to the light house . This is the most westerly point on the British mainland.

Canna then to Mallaig

We had a weather window at the end of the week for a couple of days so we decided to sail out to Canna. I am very fond of Canna as it is a very picturesque and has very good moorings. Also has a great wee cafe that does really good food.

We are always hopeful for a play with some Dolphins when around Canna as there is a pod based round the island. Unusually, we had a couple of visits far closer to the mainland on this trip. The first had about 12 in the pod ( photos below ) and the second was a small family group with a very young calf). All Common Dolphins (which are actually not that common!)

We had a great sail out and after 6 hours, were safely in the bay.

Mallaig

As I now write this we are in Mallaig, and the domestics are calling!

The original plan was to go round the Mull to Ghia then up to Mull , but once we set off ( under engine as no wind ) we had a change of plan and thought we would go and visit our friends in NI. David and Hillary.

Very calm motor down to Campbelltown then a sail across the North Channel. Gave us a chance to get to grips with Jenny’s new cameral lens ( so yes, no shortage of pictures).

At Campbelltown we were met by the usual cheery harbour master. He recognises the boat now! We decided to stay a night then get the tide round the Mull. It never ceases to amaze me, how there are so many nice and well kept big houses there. We had a walk round in the morning as no point in going too early as need to get the tide right.

Then off round the Mull. The Mull of Kintyre ( yes that is an ear worm well and truly planted), is on the main flight path for Gannets, Puffins, and Guillemots, flying from Ailsa Craig out to the fishing grounds off the north coast of Ireland . Here is a selection.

Despite the calm, it was not that warm

This time, unlike last time, we arrived at Ballycastle just at the correct state of tide. Last time we did this I got it out by 90 mins ( and that is the difference between the perfect state of the tide and the worst state of the tide) and was welcomed by 6 ft high standing waves.

Ballycastle is a bonnie wee port

We spent a couple of days visiting David and Hillary

In the village they stay in they have this community garden where you can come and help yourself – what a brilliant use of a small space.

On the final day we took the ferry out to Rathlin Island ( another place where Robert the Bruce saw the spider – there must have been an infestation in Scotland and Ireland at that time as he appears to have seen one in every square mile of both countries)

Came across these canvas and tar boats on the slip. I think I will stick to Fiberglass thanks

Rathlin

Little known fact , but Rathlin was where the first commercial wireless telegraphy link in the world was introduced between the main house and the light house.

Just before we left Ireland, this boat came into the marina . Robin ( my brother ) used to sail on her 30 years ago, and she was old then.

The Long Trip North

We decided that we should do a bit of a mammoth day to get us up to the Sound of Mull as the forecast for the next few days was not that good. I estimated the journey as 90 miles (turns out I was about 3 miles out). One of the longest runs Jen and I have done in a day with just the 2 of us.

Again tide is the key to this one. Luckily it did not require a 2 AM start or anything stupid like that. No wind so it was a day under engine. First we had to sail past Rathlin, past Islay, then up the sound of Jura, through the sound of Luing and up into the sound of Mull, stopping at Lochaline.

We even found some Bottlenose Dolphins ( I spotted one while taking a photo going through the Sound of Luing)

Some nice views of open sky

Arrival at Lochalien

Run down To Tobermory

The Run down to Tobermory was excellent the next day, 25 Knots of wind on the tail and sun was out. Before we left Lochaline I took a few photos of the local wildlife.

So that is it for now . Sorry if it is a bit of a mammoth blog. We will now be on Mull for a few days and with luck we will get some good weather to head out.

So , lets see if I can remember how to do this, it’s been a while . Having asked around we had a number of requests to do the blog thing again this year , so here you go. Will be the usual format , not too many words and a few pictures. We will try and do an update every 10 days or so and not make them too long

Getting ready

So I packed in work again at the beginning of April. ( yes, I retire more often than an aging Rockstar) and we finished off a few home projects and got the boat ready to sail. She had been in the water at Portavadie over the winter, so we had to take her out and give her a good coat of Antifoul and change the Anodes. Luckily we got the one dry day in the week .

and

The Anodes ( they are the sacrificial bits of metal; that you stick on the bottom to rot in the hope that the important bits don’t). Once all done, we hopped aboard and we were launched. Never been launched before – not quite the smash the bottle over the bow and down the slip, more a very slow crawl on a crane. To be honest, a slow crawl on a crane is all good for me.

I have to say, the guys at Portavadie were brilliant and did a great job over the winter looking after her. Next job was to put the sails up. Always interesting as you look up after 90 mins of wrestling with a large mass of canvas, only to realise that you have a reefing line in the wrong place. All back down again! The final job was to give the engine a full service, under the watchful eye of Chief Engineer Kenny, while Jenny pressure washed off the winter slime. Job done.

Packing

Our problem is we do too much – folding bikes, dry suites, wet suites, walking gear, running gear etc . Over the last 2 weeks we have been collecting it all in the spare room. Then all we needed to do was get it to fit in the car!

Then fit it in the boat !

So my Brother Tim and family came over to wish us well and kindly take our car back, so we can pick it up when we nip home in 5 weeks time for a few days .

And we are Off

We had 2 guests for the first leg of the trip ( all of 2 miles across to Tarbert where the finest fishmonger on planet earth resides ). Tom and Harriet ( son and girlfriend of an old college pal, girlfriend of son that is, not of the old college pal, just before I start a rumour) were up for a long weekend and asked if they could visit. Always good to start with a light breeze and a short trip just to check that the afore mentioned reefing line really is in the correct place.

They then took the ferry back to Portavadie while we went for a wander

DISASTER

The fishmonger has shut . He has retired !!!!! These people who just retire – no thought for the rest of us!!!

We thought we should do a winter edition of the blog to cover our trip to Norway.  Not  really part of the sailing and van adventure, but at least we  get to tick Norway off the list and we can justify the Norway flag in our collection.  I need to start the blog with a special thanks to Trevor, Marianne and David, who put up with us (and  Dave and Tracey for their company).  Trevor and Marianne live in Kvitavatn in Telemark (yes the place where the ski style is named after) and were kind enough to allow us to stay in their guest accommodation.  They have a few huts which date back to the mid 1800’s.  They are proper log cabins (where the log you see on the inside is the same one you see on the outside) and beautiful and warm.  Kvitavatn is on the plateau above Rjukan, which was made famous across the world after World War 2 for the daring exploits of the Norwegian Saboteurs.  More later.

Cross Country Skiing

I think it would be fair to say that this is never going to be Jenny’s No1 sport. Having said that she did enjoy the runs we went on. There is something magical about being out on the tracks with no one else around.  As a friend of ours said, a bit like sailing into the wind (hard work and a bit uncomfortable but still fun to do)!

First the Preparation.  As they say in the Karate Kid, Wax on, Wax off.  For those who have never tackled Cross country skiing, the principle is (at least as I understand it!):

a) each Ski has a camber or arch

b) you apply sticky wax to the centre of the arch

c) you apply glide wax to the ends

d) with your weight on both skies evenly only the ends hit the snow and you slide

e) put  your weight on one side and the ski flexes more and the sticky wax grips the snow

f) Once the correct wax is applied, by some combination of jogging, the Michael Jackson moon walk, levitation, and using the force you propel forward.

Waxing in the hut

Down Hill

If Cross country is sailing into the wind then this is definitely a broad reach (fast and fun).  Definitely more Jenny’s thing.

The Principle is:

a) find a chair lift to take you up the hill in comfort

b) slide down as fast as you can, only to be overtaken by 5 year olds with legs in a snow plough and arms wide, going at twice the speed of sound!

A bit of Snow Shoeing

If you have never tried it, have a go.  It is like having 4 wheel drive for your feet.

Trip to the Top of Gausta

Gaustatoppen was used as a NATO listening post during the cold war.  To get to the top there is a train into the heart of the mountain then a mountain lift/railway to the top.  Our friend Trevor works on the railway a couple of days a week.  Something we have always wanted to do , so as the weather was nice we decided to make the trip.

In constructing the railway system there was not a single loss of life which is amazing.  The top of the mountain is more a pile of rubble than solid rock and the tunnel was nearly abandoned during the build due to collapsing when the summer came and it thawed out.  The Americans pushed for completing the project and with the aid of concrete tunnel liners it was completed.

 

A visit to the site of Heavy Water Plant at Vemork

Vemork is the name of a hydroelectric power plant outside Rjukan. The plant was built by Norsk Hydro and opened in 1911, its main purpose being to produce nitrogen for the production of fertilizer. At opening, it was the world’s largest power plant.
Vemork was later the site of the first plant in the world to mass-produce heavy water developed from the hydrogen production. Heavy water was seen as one of the key items needed to produce nuclear weapons during the war.

Many of us have heard of Vemork as the heavy water plant was the target of Norwegian commandoes made famous by the film ” Heroes of Telemark”  A far better and more historically accurate account is told by Ray Mears – the Real Heroes of Telemark.  I will not do the Norwegians the dishonour of trying to recount what they did here, but in summary a small band survived on the plateaux for several months with nothing to eat but moss, after the first mission was aborted, avoided capture, attacked the plant with no loss of life, then some stayed in the area while others skied to Sweden.  It is an incredible story.

We had some good snow when we were there.  One of the jobs was a bit of snow clearing.  Never had to clear it off a roof before!.

What Next

On our way back we stopped off at the boat in Germany.  We may need to get some work done when she comes out of the shed at the end of April that may delay our start to the sailing season by about 4 weeks (end of May).  We had planned on going to Northern Italy  in the van prior to starting sailing (leaving here in  April), but, with all that is going on, I suspect there may be some stringent travel restrictions across Europe in the next few weeks.  All we can do is wait and see.  Maybe there will be a forced pause in the 2 year adventure….